Checking in on Favre Leuba’s Iconic Chief Collection
First-for-the-brand tourbillon and skeletonized executions, and re-imaged chronograph and date functions, hallmark the ongoing story of this chapter of Favre Leuba’s revival. All we can say is “Hail to the Chief!”
By Mike Espindle
Executive Editor
Like Favre Leuba’s Deep Raider, which we explored recently, the Chief model has its roots in the mid-century decades. However, freshening and innovating archival designs play a big part in the world’s second-oldest watchmaker’s ongoing modern revival.
“We explored our archives to create models inspired by our rich heritage,” emphasized CEO Patrik Hoffmann in recent press materials on the collection. “The cornerstone of Favre Leuba's relaunch is the Chief collection.
“The original piece that inspired this collection, the 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23 hand-wound, already featured a square-curved case that softened slightly at the four corners. With the Chief, our goal is to develop a complete collection that will incorporate a variety of movements of different sizes in the future, embodying the full potential of our renewal with elegance and innovation.”
So, let’s take a look.
A New Chief in Town
The modern Chief executions combine heritage references with modern innovation, broken out into two primary sub-families: the 41mm Chief Chronograph and the 40mm Chief Date, with 40mm skeletonized versions (the first skeletons for the brand). Plus, there is the 41mm Chief Tourbillon (another brand first) thrown in for good measure.
All share a gorgeously revisited cushion-shaped steel case and an integrated steel bracelet (rubber straps are available for the skeleton models, but read on), but those shared elements take on a variety of functions and stylish intents depending on the model. Clearly, the revived brand is using the Chief as a platform to “show its stuff” for eager contemporary watch fans.
Spinning Into Today
The watchmaker’s first tourbillon execution – Chief Tourbillon – was created in collaboration with master watchmaker Jean-Francois Mojon, who heads the Chronode SA atelier in Le Locle, Switzerland, and has worked with watchmakers from Harry Winston and Hermès to MB&F and Trilobe.
Even with the sporty nature of 41mm steel construction (a complementary black rubber strap is also offered in addition to the integrated steel bracelet approach most of the updated Chiefs utilize), you might be tempted to expect a bit of “fussiness” in the manual-wind Chief Tourbillon.
However, while the Chief collection’s cushion case shape also lends the model some added sophistication, a very angular, three-tiered black “hourglass” dial design (based on the Favre Leuba hourglass logo) allows the watch to wear very modern and, frankly, “tough.” This creates a welcome contrast with the complex nature of the deep 14.85mm hand-finished tourbillon and cage at 6 o’clock (with an integrated blued small seconds hand).
A specially created, in-house manual-wind FLT01 movement (note the coding for “tourbillon” and “one” here), provides a 60-hour power reserve and is unexpectedly rated to 100 meters of water resistance. An exhibition caseback shows off the Côtes de Genève finishing on the movement plates and gears of this “go anywhere” tourbillon.
To the Bones
Similarly, dial skeletonization can add an overly precious whiff to a universally appealing sporty steel watch, but no worries of that here on the brand-inaugural 40mm Chief Skeleton.
From the bold open work of the either gold- or anthracite-finished skeletonizing up top to the elaborate skeletonized 4n gold rotor on the back (visible through the case back), artful, circular, gauged flanges (in deep blue, vibrant green, or grey/black to color-match with the easy-change rubber straps for each) frame the dial beautifully.
Black DLC coating covers the 40mm steel cushion case of the anthracite versions for added modernity and also provides an apt frame-up for the dark open-worked dial (as does the uncoated steel case of the gold-finished models).
There is also a particularly attractive option sporting an anthracite skeleton/black DLC case on a black rubber strap with a contrasting light blue flange, bringing the total to seven options, if you are counting.
No steel bracelets for the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, which helps amp up the modern, sporty aesthetic of these timepieces. That robust zeitgeist gets a ditto with the unexpected use of bright blue lume for the hands and indices.
The gold-finished executions carry an in-house FLS01 automatic movement; the anthracite models use a FLS02 automatic movement (both offer a 41-hour power reserve and are rated to 100 meters of water resistance).
Classic Time
Three dial designs are available for Favre Leuba’s 41mm steel Chief Chronograph, with three options for the core 40mm steel Chief Date offerings. There is also a special Royal Purple execution of the Chief Date, but we will get to that in a bit.
The half-dozen in this sub-family of Chief models utilize intricately finished movements from Manufacture Le Joux-Perret. Specifically, the automatic, column-wheel L113 for the chronographs (60-hour power reserve), and the G100 for the Chief Dates (68-hour power reserve).
In both the Chief Chronographs and Chief Dates, the revisited angles of the bezel-less, brushed-steel cushion case are particularly eye-catching, playing a very close second fiddle to the dial designs themselves.
In the three Chiefs Chronographs, expect bicompax dials (a raised, broad-arrowed 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock and a raised chrono 60 seconds counter at 9 o’clock) in all deep blue, all black, or contrasting ice blue with dark blue framing.
Exhibition casebacks (revealing the L113 movement’s above-and-beyond Côtes de Genève finishing); integrated H-link steel bracelets; 100-meter water resistance; and flat, sculpted chrono-pushers, right where you want them, that play particularly nicely with the cushion case, round out the appeal of these time-keepers.
Keep the Date
Today’s 40mm Chief Date models probably communicate the most abundant sense of alignment with the 1970s inspirational timepiece, and that elegant purity is reflected in tapestry-textured, sunray-finished dial colors of bright blue, deep black, and vibrant green.
The family’s distinctive yet diminutive date window at 3 o’clock counters the knurled crown. Again, an exhibition caseback reveals the equally expertly finished G100 automatic movements.
To increase the appeal of the Favre Leuba Chief Date, a special 40mm Royal Purple dial option does the trick regally, and it gets its own in-house Geneva-striped FLD03 self-winding movement (engineered in partnership with Le Joux-Perret), offering the same 68-hour power reserve as its siblings. And, like all the other Chief Date models, this special execution is offered on either the H-link steel bracelet or a color-matched purple FKM rubber strap.
Pricing & Availability
The Favre Leuba Chief models recapped here are listed at the following price points:
• Chief Tourbillon, $33,000
• Chief Skeleton Anthracite, $4,600
• Chief Skeleton Gold Finish, $4,500
• Chief Chronograph, $5,800 on steel and $5,700 on rubber
• Chief Date, $3,050 on steel and $2,950 on rubber
• Chief Date Royal Purple, $3,050 on steel and $2,950 on rubber
Of course, you can find out more with a visit to the Favre Leuba website.