Geneva Watch Days
Geneva Watch Days: Bulgari Goes for Bronze with the New Bvlgari Bronzo
For the first time, the iconic watch and jewelry brand uses bronze to accentuate its Bvlgari Aluminium collection, and it’s as good as we could have ever imagined.
By Barbara Palumbo
Contributor
The alloy now known as bronze has existed in some form since approximately 4650 BCE (for those unfamiliar, like I was, “BCE” stands for “Before the Common Era”); thus, it is clearly not a new alloy created by a brand looking to market it as “one-of-a-kind.”
Bulgari is old school, in the best of ways. I mean, let’s face it, the brand has Italian roots, and while it has rarely used bronze in the past, it seems fitting that it would experiment with the alloy once again. To further understand the connection between Italy and bronze, let’s look at some of the significance of bronze in that region of the world.
The Bronze Age & Italian History
The Italian Bronze Age ran from roughly 2300 to 950 BCE. It proved to be a period of cultural development in Italy, with the Early Bronze Age represented through the Polada culture (primarily, the northern part of Italy), which was best known for settlements in wetland areas around Alpine lakes.
The Apennine culture, located in central and southern Italy, was characterized by communities living in small settlements on hills and mountainsides, and experienced significant growth during the Middle Bronze Age. However, the Italian Bronze Age is likely best known for introducing metalworking – hence, the biggest connection between Bulgari and bronze.
Innovations in Bronze Age metallurgy and pottery were pivotal to a growing society, with their lasting influence being somewhat more indirect.
A New Age, in Watch Form
Introduced at the sixth edition of Geneva Watch Days, the two just-released Bvlgari Bronzo models – one a GMT, the other a chronograph – represent a new chapter in the Bvlgari Aluminium story.
As with previous Aluminium editions, the brand makes it clear that this is a sports watch; the black rubber bezel and black rubber strap solidify that statement. But where there was once aluminum (namely, the case), there is now bronze, which, as anyone who has either owned a bronze watch or is familiar with them (or, if you know that the Statue of Liberty is made of copper, which is the element that essentially makes up the alloy of bronze) knows, there is the awareness that bronze will develop a patina over time, depending upon where and when the watch is worn and in what conditions.
Bronze is often referred to as being a “living alloy,” meaning it can change its physical appearance. A patina (in this case, a darker version of the metal or even a blueish-green hue) will develop on bronze depending on conditions in the air (including the level of pollution), various types of moisture (seawater being the most obvious), and skin oils.
As a result, any wearer of Bulgari’s Bvlgari Bronzo will be able to bask in the glow of a watch with a unique appearance. Therefore, what was purchased as a non-limited timepiece could immediately become a “one of one,” so to speak, because the changing appearance of the watch case will vary with each timepiece.
Bulgari continues to challenge itself with regard to its watch collections, and in doing so, the brand continues to earn the respect of both the collector community and those who appreciate pieces that stand out by thinking creatively. So, while the Bvlgari Bronzo may not garner the same reactions as the Octo Finissimo when first introduced (which, if you remember, exploded the heads of just about every watch journalist on the planet at the time), it sure as hell should get several slow claps of approval and nods of respect
Tech Specs & Pricing
The 40mm Bulgari Bvlgari Bronzo GMT (ref. 104241) contains the B192 automatic winding mechanical movement with hours, minutes, central seconds, and GMT functions (well, duh) as well as a date window. It is equipped with a 50-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 100 meters, or roughly 330 feet.
The case, as mentioned, is bronze, but it has been sandblasted to give the alloy a softer appearance. The black varnished dial and 24-hour disc are a mix of both matte and brilliant finishes, while the black rubber strap is accompanied by sandblasted bronze links and buckle.
The Bvlgari Bronzo Chronograph (ref. 104242) measures 41mm in diameter and is equipped with the B381 self-winding mechanical movement with hours, minutes, small seconds chronograph, and date functions. It has a 42-hour power reserve, is also water-resistant to 100 meters, and is accompanied by a black rubber strap with sandblasted bronze links and a buckle utilizing the hook-and-loop system.
Finally, like the GMT, the case is crafted from sandblasted bronze and features a black rubber bezel, a hallmark of this collection.
Those familiar with the “Bvlgari Bvlgari” history should enjoy this new Bronzo edition. Dare I say the watch world is looking forward to more Bulgari pieces that bring the brand into its “Bronze Age.”
Both non-limited and available today, the Bvlgari Bronzo GMT is priced at CHF 4,390, while the Bvlgari Bronzo Chronograph retails for CHF 5,450. For more information, check out Bulgari’s website.