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Novelties
Geneva Watch Days

Geneva Watch Days: Ulysse Nardin Harnesses the Power of Crystals with Its Latest Freak X

Since its introduction in 2001, the Freak has worn a plethora of bold decorations and “costumes.” But none quite as sparklingly outstanding, and as scientifically awesome, as this Freak X that just debuted in Geneva.

By Mike Espindle
Executive Editor

As expected, you will almost always learn something new when innovative Le Locle-based Ulysse Nardin creates a new version of the category-busting Freak and Freak X timepieces. My new word for the week: Crystalium.

Hailed as the most advanced material process for watch decoration by the brand, the scheme is so complex to develop, in fact, that Ulysse Nardin has only created 50 executions for this limited-edition Freak [X Crystalium] that graced Geneva Watch Days.
 

Fantastic Fractals

The gleaming effect is created from ruthenium, a platinum-group metal that is actually ten times rarer than the elite element we all know and love. Fun Fact: Ruthenium is used to make platinum and even palladium jewelry harder, resulting in them being even more scratch-resistant than these famously scratch-resistant metals already are.
 

After several days of a controlled, lab-based vapor-deposition crystallization process (think frost forming on glass, just scienced it up a notch or two), a natural, unique (down to a molecular level), fractal-like crystal structure forms on each ruthenium component, with no two being alike.
 

The Ulysse Nardin team then treats these now proper Crystalium pieces with a warm rose gold PVD finish and adds hand-applied black shading to bring out the details of the abundant, tiny formations. Oh, and the whole process took many, many years to perfect.

Scientific Beauty

Okay, you can take off your lab coat now, because on the rotating dial of a Freak X, Crystalium is just gorgeous. It doesn’t quite look like any dial decoration you’ve ever seen before.

So, how does it compare to a full-pavé dial? The peaks and valleys of Crystalium are smaller than the smallest gems a pavé dial could ever hope to use. What about hammered gold dials? Again, those are just not as intricate and light-catching as Crystalium, sorry.
 

While the alternatives I’ve mentioned that don’t quite hit the Crystalium spot are also notably on the expensive side, remember, we are talking about an involved process on a rare platinum-related material.

So, a price of CHF 40,000 for a Freak [X Crystalium] shouldn’t ruffle the feathers of collectors eager to incorporate the rare new look into their collections.
 

Ulysse Nardin designers add to the red gold appearance of its Crystalium dial with traditional red gold accents, both on the carousel arm of the tell-tale Calibre UN-230 Manufacture Freak X movement (which packs 72 hours of power reserve, BTW) and for other dial details.
 

Beautifully complemented by a black DLC-coated 43mm titanium dial and bezel, and on one of two stealthy black strap options (a dramatic stitched black rubber “ballistic” textured strap and a more sedate black alligator strap, both with more rose gold details), science becomes beautifully stylish.
 

You can learn more at Ulysse Nardin’s website.

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