Form and Function: Art and Technology Collide in Ulysse Nardin’s New Freak [X Gold Enamel]

When you think of Ulysse Nardin, the Freak likely comes to mind. The watch was a game-changer for the brand and industry when it launched in 2001. The model was a technical revolution. It introduced the use of silicon in the escapement (now used by nearly every watchmaker in the industry), all with a design that notably lacked a traditional dial, hands, and crown.

Without a doubt, the Maison is a leader in innovation, but you might be surprised to learn it’s equally proficient in craft. Since its early years, Ulysse Nardin has incorporated the art of enamel into its designs. Today, these two worlds collide with the Freak [X Gold Enamel].

Enamel is one of the oldest art forms in the world, dating back to approximately the 13th century BCE. However, it wasn’t adopted by clock and watchmakers until the 17th century AD. In horology, the craft was used for dials, first in simple solid colors (typically white, cream, or occasionally black) and later in bold hues and elaborate designs.
 

Ulysse Nardin was founded in the mid-19th century, and its initial focus was marine chronometers. This expertise was largely centralized around technical achievements that offered exceptional accuracy compared to other maritime instruments of the day. However, the importance of form and function was ever-present in these mechanical tools.
 

“Throughout more than a century, we’ve been leading the world of marine chronometry for navies around the globe,” explains Jean-Christophe Sabatier, Chief Product Officer of Ulysse Nardin. “A significant part of these instruments has always been their enamel dials because they’re not affected by temperature variations, humidity, or UVs.”

However, perpetuating the ancient craft of enamel hasn’t always been a priority for the brand. It was the legendary Rolf Schnyder (former CEO of Ulysse Nardin) who doubled down on the Maison’s use of the art form.
 

“Rolf Schnyder worked to reestablish Ulysse Nardin as a high horology manufacture,” confirms Sabatier. “He wanted to revisit techniques and know-how that were at risk of disappearing, from chiming and astrological complications to métiers d’art techniques, like enamel. This is when we began working with Donzé Cadrans, the oldest atelier dedicated to enameling.”

By 2011, Ulysse Nardin went on to acquire Donzé Cadrans. While many wouldn’t consider enamel to be a core focus, the brand has employed the art form in countless models over the years, from elaborate designs, as seen in the occasionally NSFW Classico line, to more practical applications, such as those in the Marine Torpilleur collection.
 

Today, we get the Maison’s latest interpretation of the art form in the new Freak [X Gold Enamel]. This limited edition showcases the iconic Freak X design (which modified the original Freak to include a more ergonomic and accessible composition, as well as to add a traditional crown), plus the bonus of an enamel hour disk showcasing the technique of flinqué enamel, which combines the art of guilloché overlaid with transparent enamel.
 

It was no small feat to apply enamel to an integral part of the movement itself (i.e., a functional and mobile mechanical component) rather than a standard, static dial.

“To integrate enamel, we faced three main challenges,” describes Sabatier. “Weight, so the caliber components could still move properly; dimensions, to preserve a reasonable thickness for the watch; and tolerances, with the possibility of the high temperature firing of the enamel deforming the disc.”
 

As a result, the Maison selected 22-karat rose gold (917 gold and 83 copper) for the disc because of its exceptional thermal stability.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Gold Enamel] is presented today in a 43mm case combining blue PVD titanium and rose gold, complete with a blue alligator strap. The model is priced at $48,500 and available in a limited run of just 120 pieces. For more information, visit Ulysse Nardin’s website.