Tudor Pelagos - A Sea Diver About to Stir Things Up

The inspiration for this watch can be traced back to the trend introduced by TUDOR in 2010 with the Chrono Heritage and confirmed in 2012 with the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, which marks a return to basics.

That said, the Pelagos is not a reinterpretation of a former model, unlike the two other models mentioned. It is a technical watch. But I won’t refrain from comparing it to a watch I own by its sister brand.

My first visual impression was very positive. The watch is beautiful. Titanium gives it a mid-grey hue, which is very agreeable to the eye. It is also pleasant to the touch, with no harsh angles to lessen the impression of quality it exudes. The Pelagos is light. With its diver’s rubber strap, the fit at the wrist affords ease and comfort. It confers a quite contemporary, practically trendy air to it (Cf. Hublot or Rolex on Rubber B) while also likening it to a tool watch.The 42 mm diameter case is perfectly proportioned, in my book. At 3 o’clock, the crown is protected by two angular shoulders, their shape reminiscent of a shield, the brand’s logo. Opposite, at 9 o’clock, the side of the straight-edged case is pierced by a helium valve, which makes the watch appear as professional as one would have it.

The unidirectional, notched bezel in matt black ceramic gives off the reassuring impression of a high technology product. It adds to the overall trustworthy aspect of this case. No surprises here. We are faced with a worthy heir of the Tudor Marine Nationale line. This watch seems simple and efficient at once. 

The day I tested it, I wore business attire: there is no denying that the watch perfectly complements a shirt and jacket combo.  Worn thus, it will give its owner a ‘civilized daredevil’ aura. As for the dial, it should please all ‘purists’ who still yearn for the Submariner of the past. It bears very few inscriptions. A minimal 4 lines, split between the top and bottom of the dial, and the inevitable ‘Swiss Made’ at 6 o’clock. The applied hour markers are not circled and this gives a streamlined aspect to the watch.  They are generously sized so as not to take away from their primary function, which can prove vital during diving.  The Snowflake hands are luminescent, in line with the brand’s other divers. The luminous blue matter they are coated with ensures optimal visibility in deep sea waters. Between the dial and the sapphire is an original, double-beveled flange, framing the numerals and date at 3 o’clock. The screw-down crown is easy to grasp, of impeccable size, and bears the brand’s logo. The screwed-on case back resembles most Genevan sea divers. No great surprise there.

Once the watch described, a legitimate question to raise is that of the product’s originality compared to existing references in terms of diver watches.  I believe that to assess Tudor’s performance in offering such a product at some 3000€, one must bear in mind the context in which the watch was launched…This is 2013. For several years now all brands have been getting us accustomed to annual price raises, when these are not bi-annual.

Those who, like me, purchased their first Rolex watches nearly ten years ago will remember them being barely over 3000€. But the change in rates and references (accompanied by an evolution of the products) has blown the prices up. Nowadays, you will not find a Submariner at less than 6000€. Moreover, most sea divers have gotten ‘gentrified’, so to speak. Polished mirror, circled numerals, less rugged finish, etc… With this Pelagos, Tudor renews its ties with the hardcore watch lovers, the collectors and amateurs of streamlined models, meant for professional use, simple and with a strong visual identity.

Those nostalgic of professional products and quality techniques will find this watch to be a treat. In addition to its overall qualities, both aesthetic and technical, the Pelagos possesses great ergonomics. You forget this watch is on your wrist after mere minutes.   The use of titanium solves the issue of a lack of balance, which was raised by some on francophone forums a few years back in regards to the Sea-Dweller.

The brushed finish of the case and the color of titanium are beautifully assorted with the matt black of the bezel, the dial and the rubber strap. The watch I was asked to try out was thus very coherent and just the kind I love to wear on the daily. The experience leaves me favorably convinced and I entertain the thought of purchasing one sometime, to have it sit upon my wrist alternately with its illustrious Genevan cousin.

Although it pays visual tribute to its notorious elders, the Tudor Pelagos makes its own mark through discretion and incredible ergonomics. It is, in my view, a true ‘must-have’ for collectors of mythical sea divers.