Collective Horology’s Tariff Lawsuit, the Art of the Non-Buy-Out, a Summer Watch Show in Ski Country: A Watch News Recap

Here are some breaking watch news items you may have missed.

Even for those keyed into global economics, the import tariffs imposed by the current US administration have been a hazy, confusing mix of legal speculation and costly reality. In February, a US Supreme Court ruling held that Trump lacked authority to impose his initial round of tariffs, but the administration has kept them in place through alternative measures.

To date, the watch industry has been fairly guarded in its response to the tariffs (which range broadly from 10 to 12.5 percent) and their destructive effects. However, a lawsuit brought last week by independent California retailer Collective Horology and US spice importer Burlap & Barrel, which names President Trump and multiple government trade representatives and officials, may provide a first step towards clarity and a possible resolution.
 

The suit alleges that the administration exceeded its authority by applying broad tariffs across dozens of countries without the country-by-country analysis required under Section 301 of the Trade Act of 1974, the tariffs are both arbitrary and unlawful, fail to establish the required connection between the alleged foreign practices and the tariffs imposed, fail to show that tariffs are an “appropriate and feasible” response, and they are harmful to US businesses.

According to Collective Horology’s CEO and Co-Founder Asher Rapkin, the company has already paid over $160,000 under the administration’s various tariff schemes and expects to pay more in the coming weeks. The case is anticipated to be heard in the US Court of International Trade in the next few months. The administration has not yet issued an official response to this legal challenge, but it is certainly a lawsuit that watch enthusiasts should keep an eye on.

In our news recap a few weeks ago, we discussed watch industry veteran François-Henri Bennahmias’ The Honorable Merchants Group’s plans for its fledgling N3W5 watch brand. A second story in that recap piece, based on multiple sources, indicated that Bennahmias was also reportedly in talks to acquire the Swiss indie watchmaker De Bethune.
 

However, according to a story last week on WatchPro, De Bethune’s majority owner, The 1916 Company, stated quite firmly that “De Bethune was never for sale” and clarified that Bennahmias was, in fact, only negotiating for a potential minority stake.

Unfortunately, flagrant acquisition speculation, as is typical on social media, has continued to rage over what is now turning out to have been a non-issue to begin with… Relax, everybody.

Following June’s annual high-brow Aspen Ideas Festival and culinary extravaganza the Food & Wine Classic, the third running of Watch Week Aspen, scheduled to run from Thursday, August 13th to Sunday, August 16th, is helping to recast Colorado’s image as a pre-eminent winter skiing mecca into an equally appealing warm weather destination focused on culture and luxury with the event’s most expansive timepiece-centric programming to date.

Founded by the town’s ultra-high-end boutique Oliver Smith Jeweler, if you plan to attend this free conclave, you can expect a host of interesting and exclusive events, including a Golden Hour Welcome Party presented by Blancpain and Betteridge, a 3K run with Norqain’s US Brand President Emmanuel Bütler, and special brand presentations from the likes of Hermès, Omega, A. Lange & Söhne, and IWC, to name only a few.
 

In addition to the brands mentioned above, the show’s 2026 watch brand lineup ranges from watchmakers like Glashütte Original and Gerald Charles to retailers such as Analog:Shift, Avi & Co., and M.S. Rau, all showing their latest wares and/or hosting intimate presentations and discussions for watch aficionados enjoying the high-altitude fun. If you would like to register for Watch Week Aspen, click HERE.