Our Hands-On Impressions of The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577
Subtle aesthetic touches and refined proportions make this latest addition to Breguet’s Marine Collection a hit.
Having undergone an exciting revamp that began in 2017, Breguet’s Marine Collection sometimes goes a bit under the radar, but here at Watchonista, we are definitely big fans of it.
On one hand, the collection allows the Vallée de Joux-based brand to evoke a major facet of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s contribution to horology, namely that he was appointed watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815 and subsequently designed a number of fine marine chronometers that contributed to the success of important maritime expeditions.
On the other hand, it gives Breguet a platform to offer more contemporary, dare we say sporty looking timepieces that still manage to pack some useful and impressive complications including perpetual calendar, equation of time, multi-alarm, and chronograph functions.
One of the latest models to grace the Marine Collection is the very handsome time-only Marine Tourbillon 5577. The Watchonista team was lucky enough to go hands-on with the first two variants – in rose gold and platinum – during a recent visit to the company’s manufacture.
In both iterations, we found an alluring blend that sees the best elements of the Marine Collection and Breguet’s watchmaking prowess in general, married to a refreshed aesthetic and refined proportions.
Familiar Traits
First, let’s look at the elements of the Marine Tourbillon 5577 that will be familiar to fans of the Marine Collection. Once again, we see the lumed Breguet hands and distinctive Roman numerals positioned on a discrete hour ring, similar to some dials of the 5557’s spiritual predecessor, the time-and-date Marine 5517.
Then, there is the tourbillon at 5 o’clock – part of Breguet’s automatic Calibre 581 – that, in turn, gives rise to the off-centering of the aforementioned hour ring, much like on the face of the acclaimed Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887.
And finally, of course, the case bears the assertive design that has become characteristic of this collection, including wave-like crown guards, vertically ridged caseband, and one-piece angular lugs.
Refined Look & Proportions
But while the case still packs a lot of personality, its proportions have been refined, with the generous 42.5mm diameter offset by a thin 9.35mm height, made possible thanks to the use of the slim Calibre 581. Compare that to the Marine 5517 whose case dimensions were a blockier 40mm by 11.5mm.
So, despite occupying a fair amount of wrist real estate, the 5577 manages to keep a low profile, quite literally – it easily slips under a shirt cuff while feeling light on the wrist to boot.
The dial, meanwhile, is a consummate exercise in sobriety: Within and around the matte finished hour ring is a subtle sunburst decoration, far removed from the busier ocean wave-guilloched dials on some 5517 references.
The restrained dial decoration coupled with the understated construction of the tourbillon ensures the Breguet hands and applied Roman numerals get the breathing space they deserve. Indeed, it all makes for a visually calm and soothing affair.
And that toned-down theme continues onto the back of the watch, where subtle decorative techniques have been deployed on the movement, including Côtes de Genève on the bridges and a guilloche on part of the periphery. The drum of the mainspring barrel – which offers 80 hours of power at full wind – bears a compass rose, for a fitting nautical nod.
Strap Options & Pricing
The Marine Tourbillon 5577 comes on either an alligator leather strap with helm-shaped pin buckle, a supple rubber strap with folding clasp, or a metal bracelet. Prices for the platinum model start at CHF 163,000 including Swiss VAT, while the rose gold version starts at CHF 148,000, Swiss VAT included.
For more information, please visit the Breguet website.
(Photography by Pierre Vogel)