Patek Philippe: Thierry Stern Shares Thoughts on Watches and Challenges

An Exclusive Interview by Roberta Naas, founder of A Timely Perspective

Just a few days ago in Los Angeles, Patek Philippe brought approximately 150 top watch retailers and watch collectors to Beverly Hills, CA, to showcase an exhibit of chronographs, museum pieces  and minute repeaters.

The Patek Philippe Boutique operated by Geary’s in Beverly Hills.

In the luxurious gardens of one of the USA’s most expensive mansion, Patek Philippe displayed not only dozens of current chronographs, but also historical museum pocket watches and wristwatches that rarely travel outside of Geneva. Watchmakers were on hand to enable collectors (and a very few select journalists) to interact with the timepieces.   Even more exciting, was the cylindrically shaped, acoustically inspired building that was created expressly for the display of the minute repeaters. Ten minute repeaters were displayed in this room, where the resonance of their chimes was enhanced by the cylinder’s construction.  The exhibit – which represents the first of its kind in America with so many rare pieces in one place -- will occur again in June in New York City.

The Patek Philippe Boutique operated by Geary’s in Beverly Hills.

The kick off in Beverly Hills enabled those collectors who hadn’t already visited the new free-standing Patek Philippe boutique (operated by Geary’s Jewelers) to take time during the 2-day event to stroll through the store.  The décor emulates the Patek Philippe overall look, with light leather colors, warm wood paneling and expansive ceilings. The store boasts one of the more impressive collections of Patek Philippe watches and jewelry in the American market.

During the event, we had the luxury of an exclusive interview with Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe worldwide, and fourth-generation family leader of the brand, who shared his views on chronographs, repeaters and the challenges facing the industry.

“The United States is our largest market for collectors,” says Stern, who notes that many are incredibly interested in the brand’s chronographs. “Except for doctors who sometimes use the chronograph to measure a pulse, most people don’t even use the chronograph function. They just love them for their complex technology and top-quality finishing.”

In fact, he says it takes a watchmaker a full year to assemble and finish all the parts in a chronograph movement. Naturally, the brand’s meticulous standards when it comes to angling and finishing parts plays a partial role herein. “Our chronographs have become an aesthetic work of time – more of a work of art than anything else because the mechanical movement is so finely detailed.” 

As to the brand’s minute repeaters, it is a well-known fact to watch connoisseurs that not a single repeater leaves the Patek Philippe workshops without being heard and approved by Thierry Stern – who has spent his life listening to them.  “I can tell in 10 seconds if the sound is good or not, but I may take five minutes to listen to it again and again. I have to keep in mind that the watchmaker has just spent hundreds of hours on regulating the sound alone, so I have to be gentle if I send it back.”

Patek Philippe Minuter Repeater , skeleton with sapphire crystal

And, indeed, he does send them back. Stern estimates that one in every five repeaters he listens to goes back to be reworked for either speed, tone, loudness or some other concern. “When a customer spends $300,000 to $700,000 for a watch, it should be as close to perfect as possible.”

So, as a brand that is known as the benchmark or gold standard in watchmaking, one would wonder what challenges they face.  According to Stern, the objective is to always be innovative, to earn the top space, and to stay active in the role. “We strive to create thinner movements, because this not only shows your skills but also enables you to make a great case with a superb movement,” says Stern. “We also do not embrace a new alloy unless it improves the accuracy of the watch movement in some way, otherwise there is no point. But the real key is to do it right the first time so customers don’t lose faith in the mechanics or the brand. That is the true goal.”

All Pictures by Roberta Nass