Watchonista Staff Picks: Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025

Staff picks are meant to be personal. And we could, of course, use all kinds of language to explain the technical merits of our choices. Still, my selection for my favorite watch of Watches and Wonders 2025 – the 8-piece 40mm L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition in ethical 18K rose gold ($68,400) from Chopard – comes down to the fact that simple machines like jump-hour watches and green dials are my kryptonite.
 

Honorable mention to the many malachite and matcha-tinted watches that were not jump-hours (like pistachio-colored offerings from Oris and Rolex) and other jump-hours that were not green (like the Bremont Terra Nova or the Cartier Tank à Guichets).

However, the fact that this edition of the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 also featured a honeycomb-patterned straw marquetry dial made the watch extra appealing to me.

As someone who appreciates both classic design and modern performance, the Black Bay 68 from Tudor instantly caught my attention.

The 43mm case hits that perfect sweet spot for me; it’s bold but not overbearing. And the blue dial? It’s stunning. Rich, refined, and with just enough sheen to catch the light without being flashy. It feels like a true nod to vintage dive watches but with a contemporary twist.
 

What really seals the deal is what’s under the hood: the METAS-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5601-U. Knowing this watch is tested for precision, magnetic resistance, and a weekend-proof 70-hour power reserve makes it not just stylish but seriously reliable.
 

Moreover, I appreciate that Tudor didn’t just scale things up; the brand also refined everything. The updated bracelet with the “T-fit” clasp is incredibly comfortable and practical. And with many watch brands chasing smaller cases, I respect Tudor’s decision to go big. For me, the Black Bay 68 is confidence on the wrist.

For me, it took a sit-down at Watches and Wonders to fully appreciate Rolex’s new Land-Dweller.

From the release photography, I quickly clocked the modified Oyster case shape and “flat Jubilee” integrated bracelet. I also intuited from the moniker that the brand was aiming for a versatile watch to position between the Sky-Dweller and Sea-Dweller. But, in the metal, there is so much more to the watch.
 

Available in 36mm and 40mm sizes and signature Rolesor, 18K Everose gold, and platinum executions, this new collection isn’t just a case of filling a slot in the Rolex stable. Indeed, in the elevated 18k Everose gold and platinum executions, the less-typical aspects of the timepiece veer into some sophisticated territory.

However, in the current base model (Rolesor stainless steel/white gold combo with a white gold bezel), the innovations of the case and bracelet take on a purer yet slimmer "Rolexiness.” The modifications make perfect design sense and distinguish the Land-Dweller from its sky- and sea-dwelling siblings.
 

Throw in the significant innovation of the Land-Dweller’s Dynapulse escapement in the new, seven-years-in-the-making Calibre 7135 movement that brings more accuracy and a longer power reserve than a traditional Swiss lever escapement, and you are witnessing another round of greatness in the making from Rolex.

It’s no secret to anyone who’s read my writing over the years that Jaeger-LeCoultre is my all-time favorite watch brand and that the Reverso, despite already owning one, is the model I most covet (after all, there is plenty of room for more). That doesn’t mean, however, that every new novelty from La Grande Maison will tickle my fancy (I’m looking at you, Watches and Wonders 2022).
 

This year, however, felt, well, different. In a good way. Like, in a “this is the first time I’m spending the night with another man after 19 years of marriage” type of way. (But that is a story for an entirely different publication—Pssst, Cosmo, call me.)

Every model presented in 2025 got better and better, but it is the pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface on the Milanese bracelet that has taken up residency in my heart. It gave me that feeling you get when your accountant says you can write off your haircuts, manicures, and eyebrow threading. In other words, this piece made me feel pure, unadulterated elation.

Of course, the biggest draw for me was the Milanese-style bracelet. This blindsided me a bit because, while I’m often on the fence when it comes to anything Milanese (I mean, my ancestors were Napolitano, so, IYKYK), this style of bracelet works with the Tribute Monoface – and I mean, really, really, really works.

The bracelet was silky smooth and incredibly comfortable against my skin, and in pink gold, it felt more like an extension of my wrist. Add in the simplistic elegance of a monochromatic dial and indices, and we’re talking *chef’s kiss* here. I didn’t want to take it off. For a split second, I wondered just how fast I could run away with it through the crowded JLC booth but then realized the Swiss police aren’t as neutral as one might think, so, against my will, I gave it back.
 

Ten out of ten. Would purchase.

There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that capture it. The new Serpenti Aeterna from Bulgari, rendered in sumptuous rose gold and scintillating diamonds, belongs to the latter category.
 

With pure, aerodynamic lines feel like a homage to the Streamline Moderne style of Art Deco design that emphasizes less ornamentation and more grace, the Serpenti Aeterna echoes the elegance of a Lalique radiator cap or a Jean Dunand lacquer screen. Meanwhile, the 18-karat rose gold bangle embraces the wrist with an effortless curvature, and its meticulously set diamonds catch the light not ostentatiously but with an architect’s restraint.
 

What seduced me was its quiet confidence. There is no need for horological grandstanding here, just beautifully honed design.

My favorite novelty from Watches and Wonders 2025 was the new Odysseus by A. Lange & Söhne, which is a stunning mix of luxury, elegance, and a sporty vibe in Honeygold with a chocolate brown dial.

Honeygold, Lange’s proprietary alloy, glows with a warm tone between yellow and pink gold. Reserved for special editions, it highlights some of the brand’s most exclusive and collectible releases. The chocolate dial perfectly complements the Honeygold case, making this piece simply irresistible – and, should we say, delicious.
 

The Odysseus sports Lange’s signature big date and day displays, controlled by hidden pushers that double as crown guards. Inside, the exclusive 312-part movement beats at a faster 4Hz pace, finished to perfection with hand-engraving on the balance bridge. The absolutely gorgeous Honeygold bracelet features a clever micro-adjustment mechanism that works by pressing the pusher embossed with the Lange signature and then pulling or pushing the bracelet to achieve the desired length.

Like the 100-piece Odysseus Chronograph and the 250-piece titanium Odysseus, this latest model is limited to just 100 pieces – no wonder the Odysseus remains pure unobtainium five years after its 2019 debut.

There are countless reasons to choose a particular watch for your collection: a technical feat that captivates you, a tie to a memory you carry with you, or a celebration of a goal met, to name a few. But the simplest reason is just because you like it. You look down at your wrist, and it makes you feel something, so much so that a smile can’t help but unfurl on your face.

When I consider a brand with watches that consistently bring me joy, it’s Hublot. I know the brand’s aesthetic isn’t for everyone, but I think the best watches are the ones that are a bit cheeky, a bit polarizing – the ones that spark a conversation whether you love it or hate it.
 

You might recall that last year, I named the Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire 42mm my favorite watch of 2024. Well, now, I’m doubling down because the moment I got the press kit for the brand’s latest lineup of three-handers – the Big Bang One-Click Joyful – I knew this would be my favorite collection of Watches and Wonders, and seeing them in the metal only deepened my level of joy.

If I have any beef with Hublot, it’s that many of its models don’t work for my 5.75-inch wrist. Available in red, orange, pink, blue, and green ($14,200 each), this new Joyful family clocks in at 33mm, making them accessible to everyone, whether you’re a bold guy who wants to play with color and gem setting or a girl like me who needs to live out her rainbow dreams.