Watches & Wonders 2020: Tracing The Roots Of IWC Schaffhausen’s New Portugieser Collection

This year has already been quite historic, so it seems appropriate that IWC’s newest launches reprise the spirit of the original Portugieser from the 1930s. In many ways, these are the perfect timepieces for uncertain times because the designs and functions are based on classic marine chronometers, so they don’t require embellishments that will go out of date.

Almost 90 years later, IWC previewed the latest models from the Portugieser family as part of the virtual Watches & Wonders. Because we couldn’t see these new pieces physically, we asked someone who has had the chance to hold and view them in person, IWC Museum Curator Dr. David Seyffer, to walk us through the new models.

It feels like a good time to go back to the basics, which is why collectors will find comfort in this new Portugieser Collection. As you know, the backstory of the Reference 325 was as a hunter pocket watch caliber reconfigured to an oversized wristwatch for two merchants from Portugal.

These businessmen wanted a timepiece that had the precision and readability of a nautical instrument, so IWC adapted the big open dial of the deck watches the company was making for the British Royal Navy at the time.
 

Since its launch in 1939, the watch has not seen severe design changes. But IWC has gradually upped its precision game. And in 1993, the next generation was launched, and IWC added in different watchmaking complications. “But from a design perspective,” says Seyffer, “If you look at a model from 1939, a 1995 Portugieser Rattrapante or a first Perpetual Calendar Portugieser from 2003, you’ll see that these watches belong to the Portugieser Family.”
 

Keeping with the theme of maritime history, perhaps the most interesting 2020 Portugiesers are nautical sports watches.

First, there is the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, which adds a bit of rugged sailor swagger to the timeless timepiece. It is also the first watch from IWC to feature the newly developed tide indication.
 

A sub dial at 6 o’clock shows the expected times for the next high and low tide. More importantly, however, the double moon phase display at 12 o’clock has been enhanced to show spring and neap tides to provide information about the strength of the seasonal seas. For example, spring tides, which bring particularly high water, occur at a full moon or new moon.

It’s also ruggedly handsome. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide comes in an 18k 5N gold case with a blue dial, gold-plated hands, 18k appliques, and a blue rubber strap with textile inlay. Two other attractive features include a filigree bezel with a flat casing ring and a 44mm diameter. To picture the effortless elegance this watch projects, picture Chris Evans in his cable-knit fisherman’s sweater from the movie Knives Out.
 

Then, there’s the sportier Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. Available in three versions, all featuring a 44mm case. These chronos are very robust and reliable with a water-resistance of 6 bar and a 68-hour power reserve. There are three editions in total.

The first has a stainless steel case with blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, and an ergonomic stainless steel bracelet.

The second also has a steel case and bracelet but with a silver-plated dial and blue hands and appliques.
 

Finally, the third has a steel case, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18-carat 5N gold appliques, and a two-tone bracelet made of 18-carat 5N gold and stainless steel.

But their most useful feature is the flyback function. Set in motion by the IWC manufacture 89361 caliber, this stopwatch feature displays the stopped hours and minutes in a single totalizer at 12 o’clock. The hands can be reset to zero with a simple push of the reset button.

Finally, a new year would not be complete without some unique Boutique Editions. IWC is promising high flying complications this year.

The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph combines a tourbillon with a retrograde date display and chronograph, while the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon boasts a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar.
 

"You can compare them with the Tourbillon and Perpetual Calendar we designed and manufactured in previous years,” says Seyffer. “But with these two high complicated timepieces, my colleagues from the R&D Department went another step further.”

The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph marries a flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock with a retrograde date display at 9 o’clock. This example of haute horology is available in two versions, both limited to 50 pieces. One comes housed in an 18-carat Armor Gold case with a blue dial featuring the maritime-inspired design cues of the Boutique Editions. Thanks to its improved microstructure, this innovative new material is harder than previous 5N gold alloys. A second version is available in platinum.
 

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon (Ref. 5045) also brings two distinct complications together. This mechanical feat only makes this edition even more elusive. Two references are available, a Boutique Edition with an 18-carat Armor Gold case and the second housed in platinum. Both are limited to just 50 pieces.
 

How advanced are these timepieces? “If you look at the first IWC tourbillon developed in the early 1990s and the Perpetual calendar in the early 1980s,” says Seyffer. “It’s outstanding that after only a few years that these two watches have reached another level.”