LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari’s Women’s Novelties Shine Bright For 2021
Bulgari debuts show-stopping numbers from the Divas’ Dream, LVCEA, and Serpenti collections.
Beauty has the power! It inspires and excites us. Even the act of creating beauty is energizing. Even if we can’t possess it, a thoughtful and well-crafted object makes us feel good just knowing that it exists. And while beauty is in the eye of the beholder, you can’t deny that Bulgari’s women’s watch collections – Divas’ Dream, LVCEA, and Serpenti – have much to be admired in the way the maison artfully crafts everything from the calibers to the cases.
Even though you could easily spot a model from each of these collections across the most crowded, dimly lit ballroom, Bulgari manages to reinvent them in charming new ways every year. And this year at LVMH Watch Week, the brand brings even more color and light into our lives with their latest haute horlogerie introductions.
Divas’ Dream Peacock
This year, Bulgari introduces three new Divas’ Dream watches: Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds, and the Divas’ Dream Peacock Tourbillon Lumière.
Each of these Divas’ Dream Peacock timepieces paints a picture of a glamorous Roman holiday. The tail of the preening peacock is a familiar motif in the city’s ancient, fan-shaped mosaics. And Bulgari, long known as the Master of Colored Gemstones, has combined a spectrum of jewels in a way that recalls the iridescence of the graceful bird’s plumage and the vibrancy of Roman culture.
Crafted using some of the world’s most prestigious decorative arts, all the new Divas’ Dream watches come in 37mm 18-karat rose gold case and showcase intricate techniques such as marquetry, miniature painting, and champlevé. All of which Bulgari has mastered over the past 130 years.
The first piece in the collection is the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi, which features a dial inlaid with natural peacock feather marquetry. This technique dates back to antiquity but was revived by Bulgari in the 1970s. Each dial is set with 24 natural hand-cut feather elements with a central circle depicting the peacock feather’s distinctive “eye.” The excellence of the dial is matched by the in-house BVL 308 "dischi" automatic movement. This mechanism utilizes two rotating discs a round and a pear brilliant-cut diamond to indicate the hours and minutes.
The case is bracketed by fan-shaped lugs set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the bezel is set with round brilliant-cut diamonds and sapphire indices, and the crown is set with a cabochon-cut sapphire. Finally, the strap is deep blue alligator leather.
Available April 21st, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi will be limited to 50 pieces and retail for $68,000.
The next jewel in the collection is the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds and features a peacock motif silhouetted against a mother-of-pearl backdrop. To create the peacock effect, artisans use a goldsmithing technique called champlevé, an engraving technique for creating delicate contours that can then be filled with paint, enamel, or marquetry.
For the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds, the dial’s rich colors are crowned with diamonds and further framed by a supple bracelet with the collection’s signature fan-shaped motif and set entirely with diamonds. Powered by the self-winding BVL 191 movement, the bezel surrounds the mother-of-pearl dial with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The crown is also set with a cabochon-cut tourmaline. All-in-all, there 14 different colors are represented in this timepiece.
Available now, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds is priced at $99,000.
Finally, there’s the Divas’ Dream Peacock Tourbillon Lumière. This masterpiece is a paean to both haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie traditions. It features a skeletonized dial decorated with natural peacock feather marquetry and snow-set diamonds. Each dial is crafted by a single artisan and takes around six weeks to complete.
The skeletonized tourbillon BVL 208 manual-wind movement is also visible through the dial. And the haute gamme hand-finishing of the movement brings out even more luxurious luminosity.
Available now, the Peacock Tourbillon Lumière is a limited edition of 10 and is priced at $143,000.
LVCEA Intarsio Marquetry and LVCEA Skeleton
Lucea means light, and for 2021, the LVCEA collection aims to dazzle by bridging the gap between jewel and watch.
Showcasing its mastery of marquetry, the LVCEA Intarsio Marquetry’s dial features radiating strips of mother-of-pearl to create a subtle finish that symbolizes the Roman skies. The pearlescent surface makes it seem like it’s lit from within. The round case of this elegant timepiece is available in two different sizes – a 28 mm quartz movement model or a 33 mm automatic movement model with a steel case combined with a black or grey alligator strap, both fantastic daily wearers.
Bulgari is also launching a new 33mm LVCEA in steel with a stylish black lacquered dial. It’s a little moodier than previous iterations, but the shiny surfaces still reflect light. This black beauty contains an automatic calibre B77 movement and is presented on a varnished black calf strap.
The biggest revelation in the line is the LVCEA Skeleton. As the only skeletonized watch on the market made expressly for ladies, this interpretation confirms Bulgari’s commitment to women watch enthusiasts.
The 33mm timepiece is a playful take on Bulgari’s Estetica della Meccanica aesthetic with all its inner workings on display. This edition shines a spotlight on the exquisitely crafted automatic winding BVL 191 skeleton movement, assembled in-house at Bulgari’s factory in Switzerland. Making it even more special is how the watchmaker’s logo forms the structure of the design. With a steel case and gold bezel, the watch is set with 140 diamonds, finished with a single pink cabochon-cut stone on the crown (a LVCEA signature) and comes on a blue alligator strap with ardillon buckle.
The LVCEA Intarsio collection is available now and is priced between $4,450 and $9,250. The LVCEA Skeleton is also available now and is priced at $11,700.
No watch is more symbolic of Bulgari’s jewelry-making skills than the Serpenti. Over the years, this serpentine timepiece has taken many forms, but for 2021, the manufacture manages to delight and surprise us by having the snake shed its scales.
Famous for its stretchy Serpenti Scaglie and Tubogas wrap around bracelets, Bulgari has now added an intricate gold and diamond matelassé pattern. The Spiga was inspired by a heritage timepiece from 1957 that featured a modular link construction. The advantage of this approach is that the links can be easily reproduced and combined into a variety of designs while still having enough flexibility to fit comfortably around the wrist.
Bulgari has announced three versions of the Serpenti Spiga. The Serpenti Spiga 103250 features an 18-karat rose gold case and bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds, a single cabochon-cut rubellite crown, a white mother-of-pearl dial, and a single-row rose gold bracelet partially set with diamonds for a total of 281 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.86 carats). This time-only watch is driven by a high-precision quartz movement.
The Serpenti Spiga 103252 also comes in an 18k rose gold Serpenti case and a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds. With its black lacquered dial and a two-row rose gold bracelet partially set with diamonds for a total of 461 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.83 carats), it’s a little more dramatic than the 103250 reference.
And for the hat trick, the Serpenti Spiga High-Jewellery 103251 comes in an 18k white gold High-Jewellery Serpenti case and bezel set with 205 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.99 carats). The white gold crown is set with a single cabochon-cut blue sapphire, and the dial is decorated with 257 snow pavé-set diamonds (0.72 carats). Finally, the two-row white gold bracelet dazzles with 425 brilliant-cut diamonds (17.04 carats).
The trio comes in a 35mm case size for real wrist presence and is powered by a Bulgari-personalized high-precision quartz movement.
The Bulgari Serpenti Spiga collection is available now and priced at $46,500 for the single row 103250, $67,000 for the double row 103252, and $147,000 for the triple row 103251.