Geneva Watch Days: Bulgari’s Serpenti Gets Four New Glamorous Looks (and a Tourbillon!)
Black is the color of the moment for these sleek serpents, one of which now features a tourbillon!
The Serpenti collection from Bulgari includes some of the most iconic women’s watches ever made. Still, the house continues to create new versions for every style, including fantastic, complicated gem-set pieces.
Geneva Watch Days 2022, of course, is no exception. So, let’s take a look at Bulgari’s latest Serpenti models.
A Game of Light: The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
The glamorous black and white Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon (ref. 103465) is the clear star of the show and reveals the house’s expertise in high horology and high jewelry.
This completely gem-set 18K white gold watch features round diamonds mixed with baguette-cut black spinels and black spinel indices. The contrast between the sleek black gems with the glittering diamonds is striking. And in total, this new Serpenti Seduttori features approximately 5 carats of diamond and 7 carats of black spinel.
The snake inspiration is less literal here than in other Serpenti watches, where the snake’s tail coils around the wrist once or twice. Instead, the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon’s 34mm asymmetrical, teardrop-shaped case evokes the serpent’s head in a more abstract way. Meanwhile, the alternating spinel and diamond hexagonal links on the bracelet is a more literal interpretation of scales.
But the beautiful and intricate gem setting isn’t the most impressive thing about the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. At 6 o’clock, it has a tiny tourbillon. To incorporate a tourbillon in a movement of this size – 22mm x 18mm x 3.65mm –is not just a feat; it’s a record. The in-house, manual calibre BVL150 set a record as the smallest tourbillon in production when it debuted in 2020. The petite manual movement has a 40-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 30m.
The Bulgari Serpenti: Elegant Black Mambas
Bulgari continued its exploration of the elegance of black at Geneva Watch Days with three new Serpentis: two Serpenti Seduttoris and the Serpenti Spiga Ceramic. And while they might have similar appearances, they are crafted from different materials.
The sleek Serpenti Seduttori is more of your everyday watch, with the 33mm timepiece featuring the same snake-inspired case shape and hexagonal “scales” on the bracelet. Moreover, it features steel coated with a black DLC treatment, so it has more a modern look.
Meanwhile, the new models have an 18K rose gold bezel and rose gold-plated hands and indices, all of which contrast nicely with the black lacquered dial and the black case and bracelet.
The new Serpenti Seduttori models, available today, come in two versions. The first model (ref. 103706) features 38 diamonds on the bezel and costs $11,600. Meanwhile, the second version (ref. 103704) does not have a diamond-encrusted bezel and retails for $7,250.
Finally, if you’re looking for more drama, check out the 35mm Serpenti Spiga Ceramic (ref. 103199). It is the only Serpenti model released at Geneva Watch Days 2022 with the Italian house’s signature double wrap tubogas bracelet, plus it is crafted from shiny black ceramic.
Featuring a 35mm case and a rose gold bezel with diamonds, the ceramic double-wrap bracelet elegantly snakes around the wrist, showcasing its gold and diamond inserts. However, due to the difficult nature of working with ceramic, it’s limited to 340 pieces and priced at $16,800.
All three watches are powered by quartz movements, display minutes and hours, and are water-resistant to 30m.
While these watches are undoubtedly chic, we look forward to seeing more Serpenti watches with mechanical movements in the everyday range.
Nevertheless, its releases this week have only served as further proof that Bulgari is more than capable of complicated, record-breaking movements.
For more information about all four of the new Serpenti models, visit the Bulgari website.
(Photography by Pierre Vogel)