Cartier Builds on Its 2021 Success with a Slew of New Releases at Watches & Wonders 2022
There’s no doubt that 2021 was a banner year for Cartier. According to a Morgan Stanley report, the brand, as measured by revenue, was beaten only by Rolex. And in a year when award shows slowly made a comeback, celebrities like Kodi Smit-McPhee, Kieran Culkin, and Daveed Diggs have been spotted sporting Tanks and Santos de Cartiers. Additionally, influencers like Dimepiece’s Brynn Wallner and collector Roni Madhvani have made Cartier the new “it” watch.
With over five new releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, each with numerous variations, the house has something for everyone. Cartier is generating lots of buzz not only for their iconic models but also because they regularly introduce unexpected offerings, like last year’s solar-charging Tank collection.
However, there is nothing like an overview of Cartier’s latest novelties to help explain why they are having more than just a moment. So let’s get to it!
Privé Tank Chinoise
For the last six years, the Cartier Privé has treated collectors with limited edition reinterpretations of the maison’s most iconic models. So far, we’ve seen reimagined versions of the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique, and Cloche Cartier. But this year, it’s the Tank Chinoise’s turn.
Like the original Tank Chinoise from 1922, the aesthetics of the Privé Tank Chinoise models pay tribute to the architecture of Chinese temples. There are two versions of this new Tank. The first is a time-only model powered by the manual winding 430 MC movement and available platinum, yellow gold, or rose gold.
The second version comes in either a yellow gold or platinum case, with or without diamonds, and features black and red lacquer on an open-worked dial that reveals the manual winding 9627 MC skeleton movement, developed exclusively for all versions of this new Tank Chinoise.
The time-only pieces are limited to 150 each. Meanwhile, the openworked models are limited to 100 each (with the platinum and diamonds version limited to 20 pieces).
Coussin de Cartier
The new Coussin de Cartier represents something totally fresh. And not just for the brand’s research and innovation lab but for luxury watchmaking in general.
The company calls it a “sensory on all levels,” with a case paved in either diamonds or colorful gemstones stones like emeralds, tourmalines, tsavorites, and sapphires. Because the watch is constructed of intertwined gold links, this flexible case also yields to the touch but then pops back to its original shape.
This timepiece comes in three sizes (39.3 x 31.9mm, 30.44 x 33.78mm, and 27.13 x 27.66mm), two shapes (a cushioned square or rectangle), and nine different colorways. Five are limited editions, and all are quartz-powered, which makes sense because the unique case construction requires the watch to be resealed with resin every time it is opened.
Indomptables de Cartier
Cartier is a complete luxury house, famous for its jewelry and leather goods in addition to its watches. So, it’s always a marvel when the maison disciplines cross-pollinate, which is the case with the Indomptables de Cartier.
Inspired by its emblematic tête-à-tête torque bracelets and necklaces, this menagerie of jewelry watches features tiny, gem-set timepieces held in the jaws of some combination of a panther, tiger, alligator, or zebra.
The timepieces, available in either white or yellow gold, are decorated with black lacquer, diamonds, as well as onyx, spinel, rubies, emeralds, or sapphires, depending on the creature.
Another novel addition to Cartier’s collection is the Masse Mystérieuse.
This piece introduces a brand new, semi-circular mobile calibre – the 9801 MC – that operates as its own skeletonized oscillating weight. Meanwhile, the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears like the mystery dialed clocks and watches of yore.
To achieve this magical look, it took eight years for Cartier’s in-house team to design, develop, and assemble. It comes cased in rose gold or platinum and is limited to 30 pieces each.
Santos de Cartier
The Santos de Cartier has become one of the most recognizable timepieces in the brand’s collection. Originally introduced in 1911, Cartier rebooted the family in 2018 when they launched the Santos in 13 new models in two different sizes.
Proving that Cartier is a master of playing with its codes, the Santos gets another, sportier (and dare we say it, controversial) makeover with two large (47.5 x 39.8 x 9.37mm) models presented in stainless steel with a blue PVD bezel. You also have your choice of a blue or white dial.
Some observers might not be happy with a material like PVD being used in such a classic model, but we think Cartier used it quite tastefully. Besides, the new models come with two interchangeable QuickSwitch bracelets, one in steel and the other made of rubber, so there is no sense in denying it: modern trends have reached the Santos collection.
Panthère de Cartier
And speaking of variety, this year Cartier is playing with the classic Panthère de Cartier.
The manufacture is reenergizing the line with four different colored, radiant dials in golden plum, midnight blue, and black. Applying a sunray effect to a square dial adds a dynamic effect when contrasted with the supple links of the watch’s integrated bracelet. All combined, the bracelet has the taut and graceful moves of a wild cat, but the silky finish of the dial recalls the sleekness of its coat.
This very wearable Panthère comes in rose gold, yellow gold, and steel with a diamond bezel or without. It is powered by a quartz movement (which helps keep costs down) and is not limited in production.