What is Red and Black and Cool All Over? The Habring² x Define Watches Monopusher Chronograph
A connoisseur’s vision, inspired by Patek Philippe design and aesthetics, is brought to life in a striking red and black monopusher chronograph made for a group of fellow collectors.
By Henri Lee
Contributor
In mid-May 2025, ten watch collectors living in the San Francisco Bay Area received a special package from Define Watches, an Australian retailer of top independent watch brands. Soon after, fresh wrist shots began appearing in several watch groups I belong to, featuring a monopusher chronograph from the renowned independent watchmaker Habring².
This particular timepiece – the Habring² x Define Watches Ltd Ed – featured a configuration never seen before by Habring², combining a black dial with vivid red chronograph hands and Arabic numerals and paired with a black strap detailed with red stitching. It caught my eye because its bold and distinctive aesthetic called to mind some of Patek Philippe’s most exclusive creations, including the Grand Complication Ref. 5373P.
As it turns out, the watch was the result of a collaboration involving Ravi, a seasoned Patek Philippe collector; master watchmaker Richard Habring; and Define Watches, who facilitated this remarkable limited edition.
Here is the story behind this intriguing release.
A Chronograph Lover
Ravi (@alphabeta81 on Instagram) began collecting watches nearly 20 years ago. His journey began with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic, which led him to explore world-time watches and Patek Philippe, as many of the ones he admired most were made by the brand. Over time, Ravi focused on chronographs, especially modern pieces powered by the Lemania CH27-based movements. Chronographs have remained his favorite complication, and Patek Philippe is his favorite brand. His first perpetual calendar and perpetual calendar chronograph were both from Patek.
Ravi first discovered Richard Habring’s impressive chronograph work during the years Habring spent at IWC. Naturally, Ravi also became a fan of Habring², the independent brand founded by Richard and his wife, Maria, in 2004, especially after he discovered how the brand made the split-seconds chronograph complication (something Ravi has always found fascinating) more accessible to collectors.
One day, Ravi caught sight of a Habring² Chrono-Felix with a salmon dial and Breguet numerals, and the design struck him. It was perfectly sized, well-proportioned, with a monopusher layout and a distinctive minute counter hand reminiscent of vintage Longines 13ZN chronographs. The price, given the quality, was exceptional.
Ravi ordered his watch from Peter Petzold at Define Watches. When it arrived, he was over the moon.
Inspiration for A Pièce Unique
Ravi wore his new Habring² constantly and loved it so much that he began thinking about a second one, but this time, he would like to design the dial himself. He brought the idea to Peter, who was immediately supportive. By mid-2024, they agreed to start the project. The inspiration for this pièce unique came to Ravi in a flash and felt completely natural. Several of his favorite modern Patek Philippe watches shared a common design language: a black dial, Arabic numerals, and red accents in the hands or minute tracks. These included the unique Patek Ref. 5004 for Only Watch 2013, a Ref. 5204 made on request, and the current-production Ref. 5373P.
Historically, Patek Philippe reserved the bold black and red color scheme for its most exclusive and limited creations. The brand describes this aesthetic as sporty and ideally suited for chronographs. Today, out of 72 models under the Grand Complications and Complications categories, only one has this exact color combination, the Ref. 5373P-001, featuring a split-seconds monopusher chronograph, 9 o’clock crown, and a perpetual calendar. It costs a whopping $635,070.
For Ravi, the black-and-red palette with numeral hour markers became the foundation for his custom Habring². A tribute to his grail pieces, this new watch would reflect his personal taste and collecting journey.
Making of A Dream Watch for 20 Collectors
Ravi and Peter began working on design mockups and brought in a close friend of Ravi’s with a sharp design eye. After about a dozen iterations and careful refinement, they shared the proposal with Richard Habring, who created a few renderings of his own. Following several final adjustments, the design came together beautifully. Beyond the striking black and red dial, there were key differences from standard Habring² monopusher chronographs. First, the sub-dials were made slightly smaller, better matching the proportions of vintage Patek 1463.
Next, the red central chronograph hand and numeral style took clear inspiration from the Patek 5004. In fact, to get the exact red tone and shape, all three red hands had to be specially ordered. This was also the first time Habring² created a two-register chronograph with a full black dial and Arabic numerals.
As word spread, some of Peter’s clients were immediately drawn to the design. Ravi also wanted to include his collector friends from the San Francisco Bay Area. Together, they decided to produce 20 pieces: 10 for Peter’s clients and 10 for Ravi’s circle, including one for himself.
The result was a limited edition that brought a shared vision to life for a small group of passionate collectors.
Exceeding High Expectations
After almost a year’s wait, 10 watches were delivered to Ravi and his collector friends in the US. The group included the friend who helped with the design, a member of the low-key but esteemed NorCal 6, a respected group of watch collectors in Northern California.
For these seasoned collectors, the new watch was a delight that exceeded already high expectations. Ravi recalled the moment he opened the box: “I was blown away. This is a four-figure watch, but on the wrist, it feels worth many times more. The attention to detail I wanted was all there. Many black dials can appear flat or overly dark, but this one catches the light in just the right way.”
I borrowed the watch from one of the owners to photograph it, and it is undeniably photogenic. The black and red theme, carried through both the dial and strap, is distinctive, elegant, and sporty.
Meanwhile, the manual-wind movement is layered and architectural in design, and the chronograph function feels precise and satisfying.
Ravi added, “After a few weeks of wearing the watch, I am still reminded of how perfect it feels on my wrist proportionally, and it does bring to mind those Pateks that inspired it.” This timepiece reflects the care, patience, and passion of Peter at Define and the Habrings in crafting something special for collectors.
The 38.5mm stainless steel chronograph is powered by the in-house A11C-H1 movement, features a 48-hour power reserve, and is priced at AU$12,200, including GST (AU$11,091 for international orders). Visit Define Watches for more details.