Let’s Get Small: Why the Small Seconds Deserves More Attention
How six timepieces from different makers use the small seconds function to create BIG design impact.
By Rhonda Riche
Editor-At-Large
Case sizes are shrinking. Movements are getting thinner. Why shouldn’t small seconds sub dials get more play?
The use of a discrete sub dial to display the seconds has been around since pocket watch times. Its antique origins lend this small second complication a certain patrician elegance. Naturally, with fashion currently favoring dressier timepieces, we are seeing more brands employing the small seconds in fascinating new ways. Here are six recent launches that are bringing small seconds to the big time.
Rolex 1908
Last year, Rolex replaced its dressy Cellini collection with the Perpetual 1908. The 1908 refers to the year that Hans Wilsdorf brought the brand to life, and the aesthetics of this new family harken back to early 20th century signatures: such as the half-domed, half-fluted bezel of the 39mm case (crafted from 18K gold or 950 platinum), grained guilloché dial, and the Art Deco-inspired numbers. But the thing that brings the elements together in harmony is the small seconds dial at the very traditional six o’clock position. This display echoes the round case and observatory-style hour hand, so it feels aesthetically balanced.
This year, Rolex dialed up the elegance of the Perpetual 1908 by adding an icy-blue version of the already available white and black. This color way integrates the sub dial in a more subtle way than the previous iterations. And we, definitely, are here for it.
Patek Philippe Reference 5236P-010
You’ve got to love how Patek Philippe can present a super complicated watch with a sense of economy. The Reference 5236P-010, released this year, carries an in-line perpetual calendar indicator right above the center of the vintage-inspired opaline rose-gilt dial, enhanced by charcoal gray white gold hands and applied hour markers. Pure luxury. But that’s not all.
The ultra-thin self-winding 31-260 PS QL caliber powers a triple-patented additional module that displays the day, date, and month through the single “digital” style aperture, as well as powers two round apertures for the leap-year cycle and day/night indication.
Yet all of this information is gathered around a single visual focus: An elegant small seconds sub dial at 6 o’clock that also houses the aperture for the moon phase.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
The Toric is the foundation upon which restorer/watchmaker Michel Parmigiani built the house of Parmigiani Fleurier, and this year the Maison has revived this classical collection with three pieces: two iterations of the Toric Petite Seconde and a Split-Second Chronograph.
The new Toric Petite Seconde variations are minimalist in design but maximalist in execution. The grey celadon and sand gold 18k white gold dial have been applied with a brush lending the surface a unified, matte texture. The chamfered edges of the dial plate are used to reveal the sub dial. The dials are then finished with hand-applied 18k indices. The effect is quite subtle but at the same time, the simplicity of the sub seconds makes it a standout.
Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium
Arnold & Sons’ Longitude Titanium is a COSC-certified chronometer with a bold retrograde power-reserve display towards the top of the dial and a clean seconds counter at the bottom. Because the sub dial pays tribute to historical founder John Arnold’s marine chronometers, and his decisive role in calculating longitude at sea, we feel the brashness is wholly appropriate.
Arnold’s marine chronometers were adapted to the harsh conditions of the high seas, and this modern interpretation combines the functionality of naval heritage with a classical design. The ruggedness of the display and the 42mm titanium case are softened by the brushed dial. The limited-to-88-pieces salmon version is our favorite.
Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date
Launched in 2022, Speake Marin’s sport-chic Ripples Collection introduced a jazzier language to its collection. “Ripples” refers to the dial’s 12 three-dimensional lines, and at Watches & Wonders 2024, Speake Marin revealed an even freer take on this timepiece —the Ripples Infinity Date.
And while the name emphasizes the date window, what excites us most about the dial is the offset small seconds counter at about 1:30. It’s a bit of a juggling act, but with its neutral metallic silver dial, Speake Marin has managed to keep all of the balls in the air.
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera
This is another small seconds with unique placement; right in the center of the dial. In this Chanel matte black ceramic and steel case watch, the small seconds take center stage, while a 240-degree retrograde minute hand floats above, and a jumping hour display sits beneath. It does take a while to get acclimatized to reading the time on this timepiece, but visually the high-tech display is elegantly integrated into the overall design through industrial elements such as a partially open-worked dial and a mix of spiky and smooth textures (concentric circles further delineate the small seconds).
“Superleggera” is an Italian automotive term for “super light,” so the lightweight ceramic execution and almost steering wheel-style dial layout with the prominent small seconds counter are particularly apt.
