A Fascinating Tour of Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva
During our recent visit to Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking facility, we saw everything from how movements are developed and prototyped to the fine art of dial-making. Plus, we got to observe the crafting of the grand feu enamel dial for the exceptional LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie.
Ever since Jean Arnault took over as the Director of Watches in 2020, Louis Vuitton has solidified its position as a serious player in high-end watchmaking. First, in 2021, the Tambour Carpe Diem won the GPHG Audacity Prize, celebrated for its daring creativity.
Then, the following year, Louis Vuitton awarded its first Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, which is meant to promote innovation in watchmaking.
More recently, in 2023, Louis Vuitton collaborated with renowned watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi and his Atelier Akrivia to create the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, a groundbreaking double-faced chronograph with a chiming complication.
Finally, four Louis Vuitton timepieces, including the reinvented Tambour and the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, are finalists for a 2024 GPHG award, a feat that few brands can match.
Behind these accomplishments is the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in Geneva. So, when Watchonista was invited to tour the facility, we could hardly contain our excitement. These are the highlights of our visit.
A Brief History
La Fabrique du Temps (“Time Factory”) was founded in 2007 by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini and specializes in complex movements for luxury timepieces. In 2011, Louis Vuitton acquired the company to enhance its watchmaking expertise, enabling it to craft intricate movements like tourbillons and minute repeaters.
In 2014, Louis Vuitton opened a 4,500 m2 factory in Meyrin, Geneva, combining La Fabrique du Temps with the team of Leman Cadrans, a Geneva-based top dial-maker acquired in 2012. With this facility, Louis Vuitton’s high-end watches were finally able to win the coveted Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), starting with the Voyager Flying Tourbillon in 2016.
Today, La Fabrique du Temps remains under the leadership of Navas and Barbasini and stands as a cornerstone of Louis Vuitton’s presence in haute horlogerie, having developed some twenty movements, including automatic and mystery calibers, flying tourbillons, worldtimers, chronographs, and jacquemart automatons, for the brand.
Design and Prototyping
It’s a collaborative effort between multiple teams to ensure a design can both meet the product requirements and be successfully executed by the engineering teams. That is why we wanted to visit the design and prototyping teams first.
Many of Louis Vuitton’s clients request customizations, and it is in the design and prototyping department where feasibility studies and prototyping take place. However, what impressed me most was their customer-focused approach when developing products.
Moreover, 3D printers enable them to rapidly prototype movements and case designs, so they can get a hands-on evaluation without much fuss.
Watchmaker Workshop
Next, we entered the watchmaker’s workshop, a large, quiet space divided into several sections, where each watchmaker was deeply focused on their work.
Every individual was responsible for assembling a watch from start to finish. The more junior members worked on less complex models, like the new Tambour, while the most experienced master watchmakers handled intricate pieces such as minute repeaters and tourbillons.
High Complication Timepieces
In the area dedicated to high-complication timepieces, a table displayed several Louis Vuitton watches for us to examine up close.
The piece that captivated me most was a mystery flying tourbillon. It was fascinating to see how the gears seemed to float in midair, made possible by the ingenious use of a sapphire disc.
We also had the chance to handle the award-winning Tambour Carpe Diem and observe how the hour and minute indicators appear at the push of a button.
Lastly, we were drawn to the Escale collection, characterized by the iconic design codes of Louis Vuitton’s trunks. These timepieces exuded elegance and classic style on the wrist.
Miniature Painting
Our tour continued into the dial-making department, starting with the miniature painting area.
The colorful rings for the Worldtime models were meticulously hand-painted, each stroke requiring intense concentration. The artists worked under microscopes, carefully coordinating their hand and eye movements. Meanwhile, a nearby monitor provided a live video feed of their delicate and patient work.
We even had a chance to sit at the bench and try it ourselves, only to quickly learn how challenging it is to paint fine details in such a small space.
Enamel Painting
Next, we entered the enamel painting room, where four or five artisans, all women, worked diligently in front of microscopes, and at the far end of the room, a technician placed dials into an oven.
One artisan, noticing our curiosity, brought out a recently completed dial to show us. It was the reverse face of the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie.
As you can see, the grand feu enamel dial, with its classic chronograph design, features red minute markers and blue second markers. The precision and artistry of the crisp markings and hand-painted numerals left us in awe.
Exotic Dial Materials
Luxury timepieces often come with rare and exotic dial materials, and we saw plenty of them during our visit to the La Fabrique du Temps’ fascinating storage area.
In fact, we observed an array of extraordinary materials, including meteorite, malachite, aventurine, ruby, onyx, opal, jade, mother-of-pearl, and many others we couldn’t name.
Engine Turning
Finally, we toured an area featuring newly arrived, fully restored guilloché machines. There were rose engines for creating circular patterns alongside machines for straight-line patterns, showcasing the precision craftsmanship of this intricate art.
It was a delightful and eye-opening tour of Louis Vuitton’s artisanal mansion dedicated to high watchmaking. True to its name, the “Time Factory” will undoubtedly continue to craft and produce the finest horological marvels for its discerning clientele.
To learn more about the La Fabrique du Temps or Louis Vuitton timepieces, visit the brand’s website.
(Photography by Pierre Vogel)