50 Years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Story Told in 5 Iconic Models

This year marks the 50^th anniversary of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus model, one of the most famous and desirable modern luxury watches.

If history is any guide, we can expect not just one, but several new Nautilus models to be unveiled at Watches and Wonders this coming Tuesday to celebrate this major milestone. These releases will likely shape the direction of the collection for the next decade.

While we wait, let us revisit five iconic models that have played pivotal roles in the Nautilus story.

The first Nautilus, the Ref. 3700/1A, was introduced in 1976 with several clear goals for the then-137-year-old company. Known for gold complications and elegant dress watches, Patek Philippe needed a model that would appeal to a younger generation. It had to suit a more casual lifestyle and work in many settings. Lastly, the brand needed an answer to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
 

The Nautilus fared better than anybody could have imagined. Much of its success came from the bold, original design by the legendary Gérald Genta: The case shape was inspired by a ship’s porthole; the two side “ears” echoed the hinges found on watertight windows; and the design was both sporty and refined.

The stainless steel case measured 42mm, which was considered large at the time. This earned it the nickname “Jumbo.” The case was only 7.6mm thick, with an automatic movement and rotor inside, and it was rated for 120 meters of water resistance. The integrated steel bracelet completed the look and made the watch comfortable on the wrist.
 

With a perfect name drawn from the vessel in Jules Verne’s famous 1870 novel, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, the Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A symbolized an active and luxurious lifestyle. It was a stunning timepiece and a pleasure to wear. It did not shy away from attention. The rest is history.

Once the product-market fit was proven, to borrow a term from the tech world, the Patek Philippe team expanded the Nautilus line, introducing new case sizes, materials, and more advanced complications.

One emblematic model is the Nautilus Ref. 3712/1A, launched in 2005. It features multiple complications arranged in an unconventional layout. The power reserve indicator sits at 10:30. The date and moon phase are positioned at 7 o’clock. The small seconds sub-dial is at 4 o’clock. It was also the first Nautilus powered by the base Caliber 240, which uses a micro-rotor.
 

The Ref. 3712/1A was produced for only one year, with only approximately 1,700 pieces made, making it highly collectible today. In 2006, it was replaced by the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5712/1A, which kept the same complications and dial layout.

The design of the 3712/1A and the 5712 has stood the test of time, gaining the deep affection of many collectors. The Ref. 5712/1A in steel remained in production until February 2025. Today, the Nautilus Ref. 5712/1R in rose gold is still part of the current collection.

The original Nautilus Ref. 3700/1A was phased out in 1990. It would take another 16 years for the steel “Jumbo” with time and date to return, this time as the Ref. 5711/1A. The occasion was the Nautilus’ 30^th anniversary in 2006.

The new steel sports watch with a blue dial was a faithful reinterpretation of the original, with several thoughtful refinements. First, the hinge-like ears were now curved to follow the shape of the bezel. Additionally, a central seconds hand was added, bringing more life to the dial.
 

The case also grew by 1mm. Meanwhile, the grooves on the dial were slightly wider, and the hour markers larger. It stood as an elegant and versatile modern successor to the Ref. 3700 after three decades.

Unfortunately, the phenomenal success of the 5711/1A began to overshadow other Patek Philippe models. Thus, the brand’s decision to end its production at a high point may have been the right move. In 2021, the final regular production model, the Ref. 5711/1A-014, was released with an olive-green sunburst dial to great fanfare.
 

The very last edition, the Ref. 5711/1A-018, featured the now-famous Tiffany dial. This 170-piece limited edition marked 170 years of partnership with Tiffany & Co., the first authorized dealer of Patek Philippe in the United States. The first example was sold at auction in 2021 for a staggering $6.5 million.

In 2015, Patek Philippe introduced the Ref. 7118/1A, a 35.2mm steel Nautilus for women. It is powered by the Caliber 26-330 S C, the same movement used in the Ref. 5711/1A.

This model can be seen as the mid-sized sibling of the 5711/1A. The key difference is the dial pattern. Instead of straight horizontal grooves, the 7118/1A features wavy lines that lend the dial a softer, more feminine feel.
 

As the flagship of the women’s Nautilus collection, it is the only steel time-and-date model in production today that carries forward the spirit of the original Ref. 3700/1A. It is also, without doubt, the envy of many male collectors.

The Ref. 5740/1G stands out as the first Grand Complication in the Nautilus collection. It is a sporty, chic perpetual calendar and one of the most complicated models in the line.

Despite its complexity, the watch is only 8.42mm thick. It showcases Patek Philippe’s strength in ultra-thin watchmaking. The white gold case gives it real presence on the wrist.
 

Introduced in 2018, it is powered by the 275-part Caliber 240 Q. The current list price is $178,045.

Looking back at these five iconic models over the past half-century helps explain the enduring appeal of the Nautilus collection. They may also offer clues about the upcoming 50^th anniversary releases.

It would not be surprising to see a new high complication model and an updated women’s piece. The bigger question is whether a steel time-and-date Jumbo will return to stand alongside the Ref. 7118/1A.

We can hope, but only time will tell.

To learn more about the brand and all its collections, check out the Patek Philippe website.