2012 De Bethune novelties, part 2: Baselworld
Talking about Baselworld 2012, here are De Bethune novelties for the event. Like during the Wonder week, it is a small presentation with few pieces, but extremely efficient.
And it is also a certain pragmatism that emerges from De Bethune's product department; if the artistic department, led by David Zanetta, and the technical department led by Denis Flageollet are incredible, the fusion of both these talents takes them into a process of permanent prototyping.
Pierre Jacques acts as a stabilizing factor, which gives the public enough time to understand De Bethune's genius.
So, the products presented by De Bethune for Baselworld 2012 are less innovative than usual, but far easier to interpret, and generate more horologic fantasy.
The best illustration is the DB27 "Titan Hawk". The idea behind this watch is the same that spawned the resurrection of the DB10 in 2011.
You can get the DB28's case with mobile lugs for half the price, about 30,000€.
I suppose that in order to rationalize the production and to adapt it to the Asian market, De Bethune opted for the DB28's titanium 43mm case, with short lugs.
One could regret this choice, as the short lugs emasculate the fantastic and insectile DB28's floating lugs.
Regarding the dial, the finish style stands half-way between the DB22 and the DB25, reusing the DB25's silver color and the DB22's "Microlight" dial.
This dial is even a very good alternative to the openwork dial of the DB28, since the "Skeleton" style has many detractors.
Regarding the caliber, the design is less refined than that of the 2024 fitted on DB's sports watches, but the essence is preserved.
Because contrary to the DB10 reissue, the silicon escapement system is preserved (the escapement, the hairspring and a part of the balance)
The triple pare-chute appears to be very simplified (it is difficult to check, since only the regulating organ is visible through the case back), but the most recent balance patented by De Bethune with full silicon center is still there; the only difference is that the outside ring is made of gold instead of platinum, in order to reduce the cost.
And by the way, it is not a cheap movement; one has to see it as a successful attempt to reduce the production costs, for a technology 10 years ahead of its time compared to the rest of the watchmaking industry.
I liked this watch; still, of the DB22 and the DB24 vetrois, I don't know which one I favor, since one can find the latter on the second hand market in the same price range.
With this DB27, De Bethune proposes a product true to the brand's spirit
Moreover, it is a polyvalent watch, sport, dressy, technological, and classic; it is even a serious alternative
Next, the DB25s; It is a DB25 Ciel etoile intended for women. DB had already proposed women's watches, especially the DBL Haute Joaillerie; it was bulky, with 43mm, and the case was a bit too "adorned"; therefore, the watch was not really convincing.
The DB25s is more of an essentialist proposition. The magnificent dial, blued in an oven at 700°, is even more meaningful in this women's watch. The map of the sky is, more than ever, an invitation to voyage, and the discreet touch of jewelery reinforces the overall look.
As the case is narrower (40mm in diameter, with the same thickness), and the lugs sit at the lowest part of the middles, it could appear as too thick.
But this effect is balanced by a line of sapphires (5.29 ct in total) that splits the middles.
In the same way, the discreet fitting of the 3D moon phase makes sense, as both sides of the moon are set with sapphires and diamonds.
Finally, the entire map of the sky and the indexes are set with diamonds; it is still meaningful, and respects the watch's style.
Finally, the DB28st:
The DB28 is a perfect example: it is a combination of the recent successes of De Bethune.
It is a hybrid watch, which reuses the DB25 Dead-beat Tourbillon's movement, and the DB28's famous case.
You most probably remember the enthusiasm caused by the magnificent Dead-beat's blued bridge, the most beautiful movement of 2011.
The DB28st's DB2119 movement is regulated by a high frequency tourbillon (36000 v/h), a platinum/silicon balance wheel and is driven by a double barrel with a 4-day power reserve.
It is obvious that the tourbillon and the dead-beat second use 50% more energy than a classic De Bethune movement; the power is probably divided between both parts with a 25%/25% ratio.
Compared with the DB25t, the DB28st's caliber was "turned-over" to make the mechanism visible on the watch's upper side. A bridge was added to complement the work.
And it is the only flaw in the design of this watch: if the harmony with the Dead-beat second' blued bridge was perfect on the DB25t, in this case the polished metal "over bridge" is a little superfluous, and spoils the watch's purity just a bit.
Let's be clear: the watch is exceptional, but "without the freedom to criticize, there is no flattering praise", and this fancy detail blemishes a bit its overall harmony.
In fact, it is better, since the fabulous DB28t and its blackened bridges (presented at Basel 2011) will go on haunting my dreams.
If it's true that the design is a little rough, the ballet of the super-fast tourbillon combined with that of the dead-beat second's extra wheel is fascinating, all the more that one can enjoy this sight all day long without having to take off the watch.
Regarding the case, it is still the DB28's, the titanium "Best-seller" (relatively to De Bethune's very modest scale), with its mobile lugs. It is one of the most comfortable and impressive cases in the watchmaking industry.
To choose between this DB28st and the DB28t presented last year at Basel 2011, and knowing that they both share the same case, will not be an easy task for the lucky collector who can afford about 200,000€ for one of these watches. Si If the DB28st is unquestionably a technical feat and gives way to its incredible mechanism, the DB28t features a design to die for, it is one of the most beautiful pieces recently produced in the watchmaking industry, and is indisputably the most beautiful of Basel 2011.
Objectively, after leading the brand for one year, Pierre Jacques has not improved De Bethune watches' quality.
However, was it doable?
Still, when the watchmaking industry faces the economic Darwinism, De Bethune eventually displays a true visibility, a real coherence and is more pragmatic.
After 10 years a Total manufactory, the brand eventually reaches the ultimate recognition it deserves, from the media, the field, and from the customers.
