The Art of Precision: Favre Leuba Elevates the Chief Tourbillon with a Hand-Guilloché Dial

Light transforms a guilloché dial into a living work of art, revealing new depths and reflections with every movement. With the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché, Favre Leuba puts this centuries-old craft in the spotlight, blending artisanal mastery with contemporary mechanical watchmaking.

Limited to just 25 pieces, the new edition builds on the success of the 2025 original, pairing a hand-guilloché blue dial with a sculptural steel case and a sophisticated tourbillon movement developed with master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon.

A Dial Defined by Light and Texture

The main highlight of the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is a striking blue dial adorned with a grain d’orge (barleycorn) pattern, radiating from the centre to create a captivating play of light and shadow. Each dial is engraved by hand on a vintage rose engine lathe dating to the late 19th century, demanding five to six hours of precision craftsmanship.

Rhodium-plated indexes filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1 ensure crisp legibility, glowing blue in the dark alongside the central hands. Satin-brushed finishes, sandblasted grooves and a flame-blued small seconds hand at six o’clock complete the dial with refined, contrasting details.

An Iconic Silhouette

The 41 mm stainless-steel case preserves the cushion-shaped silhouette that defines the Chief collection. Brushed and polished surfaces lend it a contemporary presence, balancing the artistry of the dial with the crisp geometry of modern case finishing.

Curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, while a sapphire caseback reveals the movement. Measuring 11.45 mm in thickness and water-resistant to 10 ATM, the watch combines high-horology credentials with practical versatility.

The broad dial allows the guilloché pattern to unfold, while the rounded case profile softens the overall appearance. A stainless-steel bracelet featuring brushed H-shaped links and polished central links comes fitted to the watch, accompanied by an interchangeable blue FKM rubber strap that matches the dial.

Jean-François Mojon’s Tourbillon Architecture

Powering the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché is the hand-wound FL T01 calibre, based on the Chronode C502 and refined for Favre Leuba by acclaimed watchmaker Jean-François Mojon, whose work includes creations for MB&F, Czapek and Hermès. Operating at 3 Hz, the movement delivers a 60-hour power reserve, with a one-minute tourbillon taking centre stage.

Measuring 14.85 mm in diameter, the tourbillon reveals the mechanics in motion, while its bridge subtly echoes Favre Leuba’s hourglass emblem. Horizontal brushing, circular graining, Geneva stripes, anthracite finishing and blue screws bring depth and precision to the movement’s architecture.

The exhibition caseback continues the story with a spiral-relief hourglass motif set against a finely laser-engraved, satin-like surface. Blue screws add a final touch of distinction, connecting this contemporary creation to Favre Leuba’s watchmaking heritage, which dates back to 1737.

A Contemporary Expression of Heritage

With the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché, Favre Leuba evolves its signature design through craftsmanship rather than mechanical reinvention. The proven movement by Jean-François Mojon remains, while the hand-guilloché dial brings fresh depth, texture and individuality to the collection.

Limited to just 25 pieces, the watch is priced at CHF 26,000. Each comes in a premium wooden presentation box with an additional rubber strap, a medallion and a loupe.

For more information, visit Favre Leuba’s official website.