Parmigiani and Gübelin Join Forces For The Love Of Ruby

Parmigiani and Gübelin Join Forces For The Love Of Ruby

This is the story of inclusiveness, in a ruby stone, that awakens the creative impulses of two teams who decided to join forces for a limited series on the Rhône... A new watch, with some incredible jewels.

By Joël A. Grandjean

In the heart of autumn 2018, the Geneva Gübelin boutique, on Rue du Rhône, had suddenly been turned into a setting for the launch of a collection of unique and limited pieces.

Rising generations as a guarantee of sustainability

Within these discreet and cozy surroundings, the high-end watchmaking brand Parmigiani and Gübelin Jewellery presented their popular creations. A ladies' watch, some jewelry, and the option to buy them together or perhaps separately. It was essentially here that two generations came together to renew a partnership, synonymous with duration, durability, and future. On one side, Anne-Laure, Michel Parmigiani's daughter, in charge of design and project management, and on the other side, the current President Raphael, the representative of Gübelins' sixth generation.

This all took place early November 2018, and it was about ten months after a simple discussion at SIHH 2018 marked the start of this operation. Since then, the comings and goings between the design offices of the two entities have enabled the machines of two factories entirely dedicated to ultra-luxury to give the best of themselves. Timing that is an achievement since this concise time has been possible by the fact that each company masters its own in-house Manufacture and is very reactive in terms of decision making.

The revealed soul of the jewel

At Gübelin, the Deeply Inspired dimension is an aesthetic philosophy that, with a background of mystery, magic, and wonder, transcends the tiny imperfections that lie at the heart of the stones. Should we talk about flaws? Of course not, because this very fact testifies to the uniqueness of each stone, which each time can tell a different story, made visible by the process of photographic enlargement. In fact, within the inner parts of colored gemstones, there are shapes, structural features, variations in hues that contribute to their external beauty. These minuscule particles of difference are at the origin of what some call the soul of the stone. There is in this approach, a part of chance, asymmetry and of everything that makes a piece of jewelry fascinating.

For its Glowing Ember line, Gübelin Jewellery has therefore decided to celebrate the roundness of inclusion that, materialized by a cliché, has also joined Parmigiani's designers in Fleurier, in the Canton of Neuchâtel. “The ruby image reveals an attractive structure, which was created from a drop of the molten basalt mass, trapped in the ruby crystal as it grew. The two circular shapes present and intertwined seem to stand out against the glowing background of the ruby, like embers shining in a smoldering fire" explains Patrick Pfannkuche, press officer at Gübelin. It's light, sparkling, playful. It's delicate like these rings that promote suppleness and which are available here in earrings and bracelets.

A Tonda 1950 watch in a 28 pieces limited edition

As for Parmigiani, the brand offered this project the best of the best in terms of timepieces, the round and iconic Tonda 1950, whose dial surface offers unsuspected bounties: a space of elegant proportions, suitable for the transcendence of a passionate ruby red, of its fiery embers as well as its intense reflections. For the first time in its history, Parmigiani Fleurier has coated the oscillating rotor of its in-house mechanical calibre with deep red lacquer. Its comings and goings merge into kinetics that can be admired through the transparent back of the model soberly named Tonda 1950 Gübelin. 84 rubies carefully selected by gemmologists in Lucerne come to flower both the bezel and the tip of the winding rod, thanks to a cabochon-shaped stone. Here and there, a few diamonds complete the scene.

The other delicacy of this piece lies in the red reflections of the mother-of-pearl on its dial. Because if the mother-of-pearl material sometimes has such shades in nature, they are more in the registers of salmon red or pink-red. This red one is a real prowess. That of first finding white mother-of-pearl so pure that it becomes translucent when it is processed to reach the most extreme fineness, at the limit of rupture, while keeping its flatness. Then, the deep red applied by lacquer on the dial plate can impregnate this marine organic material with transparency. As for the red of the alligator strap, it is a signature of Hermès.

To be continued...

Since the foundation of the Parmigiani brand, owned by the Sandoz Foundation, Gübelin, one of the two Lucerne-based brands that occupy both the distribution and branding fields of jewelry and watchmaking, has become a committed distributor in Switzerland. A relationship that makes a difference, as it is true that the very first person who believes in you remains forever at the heart of individual bonds. Thus, Michel Parmigiani and his teams, particularly valued in the network of Gübelin boutiques, feel there as if they were at home, in a spirit of trust. An atmosphere of a kind that encourages this rare and intense partnership.

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