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HYT SOONOW: A Unique Perspective Of Time

Philosophical and fluidic watches. A new interpretation of time that goes with life’s flow. HYT does nothing like other brands. The new SOONOW adds volume to its already unique approach.

By Benjamin Teisseire

Challenge: Indicate the time with a fluid infused display yet retain the use of a mechanical movement. This was already a daunting feat when the brand launched in 2012. However, this engineering challenge is tempered by the brand’s philosophical approach, which provides meaning in a world that sorely lacks it. As François Nunez, creative director of the brand, puts it, “We are entering into the very substance of the conception of time. At HYT, we do not make timepieces but tellers of time, to give it meaning.”

Cultivating Paradoxes

The idea now is to delve deeper into the philosophy of time and to accentuate the three-dimensionality of the product. It is the very opposite of extra-flat. In truth, the “watch” is conceived as a sculpture that must be grasped from every angle. As nothing is immediately revealed, it takes time to discover and tame the object. The 937 perforations of the DLC coated titanium dial are then shown. The framed central skull indicates the hours in letters on the sidewall. The skull head is composed of 313 spikes in 18-carat gold (white or yellow depending on the version). Despite the ultra-modern aspect, it is a goldsmith's work. The contrast becomes a paradox.

Similarly, the idea of mixing mechanics and fluid that do not usually work well together. The paradox of two complementary liquids that are opposed and not mixing the past and the future and whose moment of tension indicates the present. The sapphire glass which presents the creation like a crystal ball. It protects the dial while magnifying it. It is technical and extreme, and yet its curved shape makes it look organic like a pebble polished by the flow of water. 

The technicality of the detail

The capillary tube indicating the time that embodies the skull of the SOONOW has been remodeled. It is more flexible. The lines are softer, become more precise to give an almost tender face to this representation that one might think morbid. François Nunez explains. “The folding is done by hand. It is a new skill that we improve over time. It’s difficult to see to what extent this technique has been one of the significant difficulties for HYT. We had tried to call on the Murano experts, but we could not obtain the desired technical rendering. Conversely, laboratory technicians also failed to make the desired beauty. HYT stands on the border between technology and art. “

Every detail has its history and meaning. The inversion of the color of the fluids with the transparent past and the bright future offers another vision that accentuates the sense in the coming time. The look itself is full of details loaded with meanings that make it sweet. The left eye skews the seconds and reveals the words “soon” and “now” every thirty seconds as if to emphasize the importance of the present moment. The right represents the 65-hour power reserve that turns red when it’s time to wind up, like a wicked wink. The haute horlogerie finishes are visible on the sapphire crystal case-back: angled bridges and Cotes de Genève remind us, if necessary, that the movement is mechanical with manual winding in the pure Swiss tradition. For all the technical details, click HERE.

Modernity and legitimacy

With a 48.8mm case for 20.08mm high, the SOONOW impresses. Wearing the watch is exceptionally confrontable and natural. The two versions are limited to 25 pieces in steel and 18k rose, or a white gold version which will undoubtedly find a collector in search of modernity, combining unique and traditional know-how. As the exciting creative director says, “Asia, with its desire to stand out, is our first market. But the US is growing strongly now. In less than three years, HYT has won many new wrists. Philosophy pleases and mechanical quality legitimizes our approach. “

The patented fluidic module HYT, as well as the thermal compensator that equips the bellows to annul the temperature changes and guarantee total accuracy, will both enter the big book of the “horological complications” very soon. A real recognition that is widely deserved.

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