Top Lots: Treasure Hunting at Antiquorum’s “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” Auction in Geneva

Attending auctions in Geneva can feel very much akin to window shopping at times (not least of which because most lots come with a high five-figures price tag). So, if you aren’t planning to bid, where’s the fun? Why even bother attending?

Well, for me, I love having the opportunity to see (or sometimes even try on) more than 500 watches that the average watch enthusiast seldom sees in real life. But if you do want to win a watch this auction season, then the upcoming “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction hosted by Antiquorum should be your first port of call in Geneva for 2023.
 

With more than 500 lots up for grabs at the Hôtel Beau-Rivage on Sunday, May 14th (lots 1-200) and Monday, May 15th (lots 201-351), Antiquorum’s upcoming “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction features innumerable top lots, including 3 F.P.Journes, 8 Patek Philippes with a perpetual calendar function, at least 9 pre-Moon landing Omega Speedmasters (including an “Ed White” from 1965, an “Ultraman” from 1968, and a ref. CK2915 from 1959), and 17(!!) Rolex Daytonas.
 

Of course, all of these lots come with high five-figure estimates; however, more importantly, the catalog is also filled with watches in the CHF 1,000 to CHF 15,000 price range that are high quality and chock full of charm.

So, keeping all that in mind, here is my list of the top 8 lots from Antiquorum’s upcoming “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction.

Following the rebirth of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s interest in its vintage models not named “Reverso,” I discovered a new-found appreciation for brands that use their heritage departments to highlight what’s special or unusual as well as what’s sought-after. As a result, Lot 23’s example of an iconic Memovox reference E857 (European version) must be included on any “top lots” list for this auction.
 

Marketed as the world’s first mechanical alarm dive watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre made only 1061 pieces of this reference worldwide between 1959 and 1962 (the watch in this lot was made in 1960). Moreover, as the much rarer European version signed by Jaeger-LeCoultre, this lot is actually 1 of only 200 pieces ever made. It’s a very nice catch if you like divers in your collection.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000

While I’m not the biggest Rolex collector in the community, I am Italian, which means I could talk to walls if they dared to answer. So, when asked about my generation’s interest in vintage Rolex watches such as the Precision Ref. 4417 from circa 1945 comprising Lot 139, I feel comfortable saying it looks like we can’t get enough of them because this one is getting popular.

Now, if collectors of my generation like classics, love a good bargain, and have a soft spot for a time when watchmaking was about nuances and class, then I don’t have any lot-specific details to add that will sweeten the pot of this enchanting watch.
 

However, since that is the purpose of this article, I will say that, given its fancy lugs, “priest’s hat” crown, and 34mm steel case, this watch will look great with any outfit, be it a bespoke suit or a t-shirt and cargo shorts, and you won’t have to miss out on the brand side of collecting.

Estimate: CHF 2,500 – CHF 4,500

From Royal Oaks to pocket watches, there is an enormous variety of pieces from Audemars Piguet from which to choose, with no fewer than 29 lots included in the “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” auction catalog. So, in the interest of time, I will only highlight the one I’d be most thrilled to own: Lot 230’s 36mm Quantieme Perpetuel Ref. 25670.

A watch synonymous with elegance, this 18K yellow gold Ref. 25670 presents the perpetual calendar complication in its purest form. Add to that this lot’s impeccable white dial, and it becomes even more desirable (at least to me) than even its rarest iterations.
 

This Ref. 25670 is nothing more than everything you need, in the best case size you can have, and with the most iconic Audemars Piguet complication. What else is there to say?

Estimate: CHF 10,000 – CHF 15,000

One of three Vacheron Constantin 222s in this catalog (along with some Audemars Piguet models that share the same aesthetic codes), Lot 432 is my absolute favorite, and I truly wish it goes to someone who’ll cherish it.
 

This reference 44018/411 from 1980 represents, to me, the pinnacle of gold watches on a bracelet (made by Gay Frères, no less). Moreover, accompanied by its extract and original invoice (stating that it cost something like €4,000), I am very curious to hear the hammer price on this one.

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – CHF 80,000

I hope everyone reading this registers with Antiquorum and gets a paddle number because, as much as I don’t know you, I am sure there will be at least one watch you’ll want for your own collection. And given the catalog size and variety of pieces, I’m sure there will be at least one watch you can actually win.

Register. Trust me; you’ll thank me later, or, better yet, join me at the lot viewing (just don’t bid on the same lots as me during the auction days!)